Skt. Hans, the de-paganised midsummer

History lesson: Once upon a time, many many years ago, we were pagans and celebrated midsummer and midwinter - the longest and shortest days of the year respectively. Then came the Christian missionaries and, wise as they were, let us keep our celebrations but adjusted them slightly to - voila! - make them Christian instead.
So instead of celebrating the longest day of the year on 21 June, we now celebrate the birthday (24 June) of St. John the Baptist ("Sankt Hans" in Danish). Similarly, instead of celebrating the shortest day of the year on 21 December, we celebrate the birthday of Jesus. And in line with Nordic tradition, celebrations are held the night before; Sankt Hans eve 23 June and Christmas Eve 24 December.

Skt. Hans today: Not many Danes are aware of the origin of the name Skt. Hans or the reason why we celebrate on 23 June. It is not a religous celebration at all, but simply a midsummer celebration as it always was. You can't blame us, our winters are long and dark, of course we're going to have a party when the day/night ratio is 3/1!
So what do we do? Well, we gather in parks - often some public (local) person will have been invited to give a "bonfire speech" and say something meaningful, then huge bonfires are lit just before sunset (21:55), and we sing the Midsummer ballad. People often come early and have a picnic first.
A fairly recent addition to the tradition (1860s) is witch-puppets that are placed on the bonfire - please don't be horrified, it does not mean we used to burn people alive at midsummer!!! Rather the bonfires were meant to scare off evil forces such as witches and trolls.

Where to celebrate Skt Hans in Copenhagen

Nyhavn
21:45 Speech at 'Mindeankeret' (the anchor at the end of Nyhavn by Kongens Nytorv) by writer Allan Mylius Thomsen.
22:00 Bonfire is lit on a platform in the canal.

Tivoli
21:30 Bonfire is lit on a platform in the lake.
22:00 "Sinatra night" at Plænen - free open-air jazz concert with the Tivoli Big Band.
22:30 "Tivoli Illuminations" light show over the lake.

Frederiksberg Have (in front of the palace)
21:20 Speech by Claus Meyer (industrious chef and the man behind Noma).
21:30 Bonfire is lit.

Blågårds Plads
18:00 BBQs are hot, bring your own food to cook.
19:15 Live reggae/dancehall music.
22:00 Bonfire, speech and Midsummer ballad.

Islands Brygge
Music, entertainment for the kids.
21:15 Bonfire is lit.

Christianshavns Vold
18:15 Children's bonfire (before bedtime - clever).
21:00 Bonfire is lit.

Ofelia Beach (by Skuespilhuset)
21:00 Speech by Minister of Culture Per Stig Møller.
21:15 Bonfire is lit.
21:20 Midsummer ballad, lead by opera singer.
You can enjoy a special Skt. Hans menu at the restaurant SALT which has a view of Ofelia Beach - book here.

Søerne (the lakes)
Peblingesøen in front of Kaffesalonen, by the wooden platform.
18:00 Funk and BBQ.
21:45 Bonfire speech.
22:00 Bonfire is lit.
Music continues until 23:30.

Fælledparken
The Cafe Pavillion inside the park.
18:00 BBQ
20:00-23:00 Music
22:00 Bonfire is lit.

Amager Strandpark
No official program up at this time, but there are bonfires at the beach every year.

Weather forecast: Danish summer weather is infamously changeable. Stay up to date on the websites of the Danish Meteorological Institute and news channel TV2's weather service (they don't always agree, so check both).

Eco chic Copenhagen and the new Nordic cuisine

We do love praise.

http://www.theecologist.org/green_green_living/out_and_about/774428/copenhagen_eco_chic.html

http://www.guardian.co.uk/travel/2011/feb/13/dining-in-denmark

http://www.latimes.com/travel/la-tr-copenhagen-20100905,0,6998376.story

http://www.nytimes.com/2010/07/07/dining/07chef.html?pagewanted=1&_r=2

Madklubben restaurants

Madklubben is a favourite of mine! The concept is simple in the best sense of the word.

As the manifest says: Good food in nice surroundings, no long stories and intimate details about everything they serve, but do ask if you have questions - and speak up if something doesn't live up to your expectations; tomorrow it will be too late to correct it.

Very reasonable prices: 1 course for DKK 100, 2 for DKK 150, 3 for DKK 200, 4 for DKK 250. And the Danish/French-inspired cuisine is really good.


They are only open for dinner.

This is a personal favourite of mine because it is great value for money, and I always leave with a big smile on my face after having enjoyed a delicious dinner.

66 Store Kongensgade, 1264 København K
Tel.: 3332 3234
Email: madklubben@bistrobooking.dk
Online booking
Open: Mon-Sat 17:30-24


Kraks map
Google map

A peek in through the window


Madklubben has other eateries around Copenhagen – lucky us!


The most recent addition is Madklubben TIVOLI in the Tivoli Gardens. The restaurant looks like an old conservatory and the menu is based on “dishes granny would serve in her allotment garden”. Small lunch dishes for DKK 50 (they recommend 3 dishes per person). Dinner is 1 course for DKK 100, 2 for DKK 150, 3 for DKK 200, 4 for DKK 250, similar to the original Madklubben.

The restaurant is located right next to Plænen (“the lawn”) in Tivoli where guests can enjoy free open air concerts on Friday evenings – Madklubben TIVOLI therefore has a special Friday menu with 3 courses for DKK 350.

Madklubben TIVOLI

Tivoli Gardens

Tel: 3375 0755

Email: tivoli@bistrobooking.dk

Online booking indoors

Online booking outdoors 

Open: when Tivoli Gardens are open

For those of the distinctly carnivorous persuasion, there is Madklubben Steak in Pilestræde. A selection of brunch dishes, steak or burger early in the day. The dinner menu of course includes beef, lamb, pork, fish and bird. And foie gras. 3 courses for DKK 300, 4 courses for DKK 350.

Madklubben Steak
23 Pilestræde, 1112 København KTel: 3313 3334Email: steak@bistrobooking.dk
Online booking
Open: Mon-Fri 8-15, Sat + Sun 10-16, Mon-Sun 17:30-24


Tony’s is named after the restaurant in the Disney movie “Lady and the Tramp”, and the cuisine is “Italy/New York”. And yes, of course you can have spaghetti and meatballs! 3 courses for DKK 200, 4 for DKK 250.

Tony’s
47 Havnegade, 1058 København K
Tel: 3313 3307
Email: tonys@bistrobooking.dk
Online booking
Open: Mon-Sun 17:30-24


Last in the row of Madklubben’s eateries (for now!) is Frankie’s Køkken – the 80s revisited.

Frankie's Køkken

25 Admiralgade, 1066 København K

Tel: 3313 3377

Email: frankies@bistrobooking.dk

Online booking 

Open: Mon-Sat 17:30 - 24:00










Tivoli

It's still a couple of months before the Tivoli Gardens open again, but I wanted to point something out: The true Tivoli experience you get after dark when all the millions of lights are turned on.

To me, Tivoli is the best park in town for a stroll. I have a season pass, so I drop by as often as I can just to enjoy a coffee and some people-watching. There are benches and flower beds everywhere, and it's very charming. But after dark it's magic.

These photos are a couple of years old, taken around Halloween obviously, and the atmosphere is exactly right.

Krak map

Google map