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Living in Copenhagen.
Showing posts with label Frederiksberg. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Frederiksberg. Show all posts

19 June 2011

Skt. Hans, the de-paganised midsummer

History lesson: Once upon a time, many many years ago, we were pagans and celebrated midsummer and midwinter - the longest and shortest days of the year respectively. Then came the Christian missionaries and, wise as they were, let us keep our celebrations but adjusted them slightly to - voila! - make them Christian instead.
So instead of celebrating the longest day of the year on 21 June, we now celebrate the birthday (24 June) of St. John the Baptist ("Sankt Hans" in Danish). Similarly, instead of celebrating the shortest day of the year on 21 December, we celebrate the birthday of Jesus. And in line with Nordic tradition, celebrations are held the night before; Sankt Hans eve 23 June and Christmas Eve 24 December.

Skt. Hans today: Not many Danes are aware of the origin of the name Skt. Hans or the reason why we celebrate on 23 June. It is not a religous celebration at all, but simply a midsummer celebration as it always was. You can't blame us, our winters are long and dark, of course we're going to have a party when the day/night ratio is 3/1!
So what do we do? Well, we gather in parks - often some public (local) person will have been invited to give a "bonfire speech" and say something meaningful, then huge bonfires are lit just before sunset (21:55), and we sing the Midsummer ballad. People often come early and have a picnic first.
A fairly recent addition to the tradition (1860s) is witch-puppets that are placed on the bonfire - please don't be horrified, it does not mean we used to burn people alive at midsummer!!! Rather the bonfires were meant to scare off evil forces such as witches and trolls.

Where to celebrate Skt Hans in Copenhagen

Nyhavn
21:45 Speech at 'Mindeankeret' (the anchor at the end of Nyhavn by Kongens Nytorv) by writer Allan Mylius Thomsen.
22:00 Bonfire is lit on a platform in the canal.

Tivoli
21:30 Bonfire is lit on a platform in the lake.
22:00 "Sinatra night" at Plænen - free open-air jazz concert with the Tivoli Big Band.
22:30 "Tivoli Illuminations" light show over the lake.

Frederiksberg Have (in front of the palace)
21:20 Speech by Claus Meyer (industrious chef and the man behind Noma).
21:30 Bonfire is lit.

Blågårds Plads
18:00 BBQs are hot, bring your own food to cook.
19:15 Live reggae/dancehall music.
22:00 Bonfire, speech and Midsummer ballad.

Islands Brygge
Music, entertainment for the kids.
21:15 Bonfire is lit.

Christianshavns Vold
18:15 Children's bonfire (before bedtime - clever).
21:00 Bonfire is lit.

Ofelia Beach (by Skuespilhuset)
21:00 Speech by Minister of Culture Per Stig Møller.
21:15 Bonfire is lit.
21:20 Midsummer ballad, lead by opera singer.
You can enjoy a special Skt. Hans menu at the restaurant SALT which has a view of Ofelia Beach - book here.

Søerne (the lakes)
Peblingesøen in front of Kaffesalonen, by the wooden platform.
18:00 Funk and BBQ.
21:45 Bonfire speech.
22:00 Bonfire is lit.
Music continues until 23:30.

Fælledparken
The Cafe Pavillion inside the park.
18:00 BBQ
20:00-23:00 Music
22:00 Bonfire is lit.

Amager Strandpark
No official program up at this time, but there are bonfires at the beach every year.

Weather forecast: Danish summer weather is infamously changeable. Stay up to date on the websites of the Danish Meteorological Institute and news channel TV2's weather service (they don't always agree, so check both).

13 February 2011

Frederiksberg Chokolade

Frederiksberg Chokolade, since 1923.

This esteemed old confectionery and chocolate shop always offers a minimum of 70 different chocolates to choose from, so you are sure to find something for everyone here. Located in lovely Frederiksberg Allé.

64 Frederiksberg Allé, 1820 Frederiksberg C
Open: Mon-Thur 10-17.30, Fri 10-18, Sat 10-14
Tel.: 3322 3635
Email: tina@frederiksbergchokolade.dk

Krak map
Google map

Peter Beier

Peter Beier Chokolade. Now here is a shop that understands how to cater to customers - you will always be offered product samples while you wait. For some reason it always seems to be my turn just when I've bitten into a nice big piece... 

Everything about Peter Beier is pure and simple, literally. The boxes are sleek and ooze quality, so do the minimalistic stores. The shells of the chocolates are thick and give a proper crack when you bite into them, the taste is very pure and rich, the products look like shiny little geometrical chocolate blocks.

My personal favourites are: The liquid caramel in the milk chocolate shell shaped like a cocoa fruit, and the candied orange peel enrobed in crunchy dark chocolate. Yummy. Expensive, but fantastic.

The chocolatier shops (not Skoubogade) have a small cafe-area where they serve chocolate fondue and hot chocolate, and in summer also chocolate milkshakes.

All chocolatier shops open: Mon-Thur 10-18, Fri 10-19, Sat 10-17, first Sunday of the month 11-16

Falkonér Alle 43, 2000 Frederiksberg
Tel.: 3833 1801

Gammel Kongevej 98, 1850 Frederiksberg C
Tel.: 3321 3300

Nordre Frihavnsgade 20, 2100 København Ø
Tel.: 3538 0110

Peter Beier retailer - (Note! Their caramels are no good here.)
Skoubogade 1, 1158 København K
Tel.: 3393 0717
Open: Mon-Thur 10-18, Fri 10-19, Sat 10-16

A Xoco

A Xoco is the 'haute couture' shop of Danish chocolate brand Anthon Berg. These people are experts, and the products prove it. Excquisite chocolate gastronomy for the eye and palate, over-the-top in the best sense of the word.

The selection includes single-bean ganaches (yes, there are different cocoa beans just like there are different coffee beans!), rustic blocks with e.g. strawberry/pistachio, and luxury versions of the Danish specialty 'flødebolle' seasoned with salt, honey and liqourice. Try the fusion collection with bacon/tomato or foie gras/raspberry if you dare!

115 Gammel Kongevej, 1850 Frederiksberg C
Tel.: 3617 0170
Open: Mon-Thur 11-17:30, Fri 11-18:30, Sat 10-15

Summerbird chocolate

Summerbird is a Danish chocolate producer famous for their delicate and elegant products, all of the highest quality.

The selection includes almonds which are dipped in nougat and chocolate, and then dusted with a powder of e.g. freeze-dried raspberry, lemon, cocoa or liqourice. Summerbird are also known for their luxury versions of the Danish specialty 'flødeboller'. I should warn you: It's all highly addictive.

Summerbird has several shops in Copenhagen, and also a confectionery. You will always find product samples on the counter, go on and indulge yourself.

My personal favourites are: The white Grand Cru flødeboller and both the cocoa- and raspberry-dusted almonds.

11 Kronprinsensgade, 1114 København K
Tel.: 3393 8040
Email: kronprinsensgade@summerbird.com
Open: Mon-Fri 11-18, Sat 10-16
Krak map
Google map


Kronprinsensgade

9 Værnedamsvej, 1819 Frederiksberg C
Tel.: 3325 2550
Email: vaernedamsvej@summerbird.com
Open: Mon-Fri 11-18, Sat 10-15
Krak map
Google map

13 Kongens Nytorv, 1095 København K (Bottom floor of Magasin department store)
Tel.: 3318 2016
Email: kongensnytorv@summerbird.com
Open: (see Magasin's website)
Krak map
Google map

Summerbird Pure (confectionery)
9 Ny Østergade, 1101 København K
Tel.: 3313 1902
Email: pure@summerbird.com
Open: Mon-Fri 10-18, Sat 10-16
Krak map
Google map


Hazelnuts dipped in espresso-nougat and dusted with blue chocolate powder, and almonds dipped in white chocolate with lemon and dusted with liqourice

Almonds dusted with raspberry, liqourice and lemon

Chocolate-marzipan eggs with passionfruit, lime, blackcurrant and blueberry

Luxury white 'flødebolle' - sweet, tangy and with a hint of liqourice

9 February 2011

Copenhagen in winter

Yes, it's cold. This is Scandinavia, and it's winter.

"There is no such thing as bad weather, only inappropriate clothing." This saying has always annoyed me - I disagree. 'Too wet' and 'too cold' (even 'too hot') are definitely factors that will have me spending the majority of my time indoors.

But only the majority of my time, not all of it. I jump at the chance for a walk, especially if the sun is out. The fresh air clears the cobwebs from my mind. My ears may be numb afterwards, but that just makes curling up in a sofa with a hot cup of [insert favourite beverage] that much more enjoyable.

There is no such thing as a bad time of year to be in Copenhagen.

Photos are from the park 'Frederiksberg Have', in the background Frederiksberg Slot and the Zoo. They were taken a late afternoon in January, there were plenty of people around - especially children with sledges.